Training and Pruning
The majority of vines require some kind of support. Supports can be just about anything! For training woody vines, copper wire is a strong, flexible material that can be used. Annual vines need only twine for training purposes. First and seconf year vines tend to sprout and elongate stems more than produce leaves and flowers. Pinching back shoot ends helps balance their growth.Twining vines especially grow from upper buds and tend to lose their lower leaves. They may need severe heading back to promote foliage near the ground. If a compact vine is desired, head back stems throughout the growing season; if you want a vine to ramble, keep your pruning shears in their scabbard.

Pruning mature vines are similar to those for pruning deciduous shrubs. Species grown for their foliage can be pruned throughout the garden season, but early spring before leaves appear puts the least stress on the plant. Vines that flower in summer and fall on the current year's growth, should be pruned in late winter or early spring. That schedule gives the plant time to produce new shoots and flowers. Prune vines that flower early in the garden season on shoots produced the previous year immediately after their flowers fade. Most hardy vines fall into this category. Ornamental and edible fruit vines should be pruned in the spring.

Planting Vines
To plant vines, loosen soil and dig a hole three times as wide as the rootball. Plant the vine and thoroughly water. Annual vines need fertilizing at planting time and again a little later in the season to keep them actively growing. Regardless of what kind of fertilizer you use, do not overdo it or risk pushing the vines too fast. Mulches have many benefits for vines including keeping soil cool and moist in summer and insulating against freezing and protecting the trunks of plants from being damaged by mowers or string trimmers.